Pearl Guide

A Primer From the Atelier

The Pearl
Guide.

How we choose, finish, and stand behind every pearl we sell — written so you know exactly what you are bringing home.

01.

Our Standard

The Five Criteria
We Grade On.

Only the top 1% of freshwater pearls meet all five at once. The same scale we apply to ourselves, applied to every strand before it leaves our atelier.

I
The defining quality

Luster

A top-grade pearl reflects light almost like a mirror, with crisp edges instead of a soft haze. Aurora luster — the deepest grade — comes from thick, well-ordered nacre laid down over years. Without luster, a pearl is merely round.

II
The skin

Surface

Smooth, unblemished nacre. Minor markings are natural in most pearls; top-grade strands have them minimized — or hidden at drilling points so they never face outward when worn.

III
The geometry

Shape

A truly round pearl rolls across a flat surface without wobbling. Near-round, off-round, baroque, and drop are progressively less symmetrical — each beautiful, at different price points. Our AAAA+ strands are round.

IV
The scale

Size

Measured in millimeters across the pearl's widest point. Larger sizes are exponentially rarer: a 9mm round freshwater pearl represents three to five years of cultivation, and most harvests never produce them in meaningful quantity.

V
The whole

Match

In a strand, consistency matters as much as any single pearl. Uniform color, gradient, and luster. A hand-matched strand reads as one piece of jewellery — not a collection of beads.

A standing rule

All five, every strand.

Four of the five is industry-standard AAAA. We refuse to ship a strand that doesn't satisfy all five at our threshold — and the gap shows up in the photograph before it shows up on your collarbone.

02 · The Grade

AAAA+

Selected,
not produced.

"AAAA" is the highest grade most online retailers will quote you. AAAA+ satisfies all five of our criteria, where AAAA only meets four. We grade transparently across AAA, AAAA, and AAAA+ — each priced to reflect exactly what it delivers, so you can choose the tier that fits.

AAAA+ is reserved for the rarest top 1% of any given freshwater harvest — hand-matched by the atelier.

03.

How it sits

Necklace Lengths.

Length is the single most personal choice — it changes how a pearl reads on you, what neckline it works with, and whether it becomes a daily piece or a statement.

Choker
14–16 in · 36–40 cm
Sits flat at the base of the neck. Pairs with open necklines, dresses, and any neckline above the collarbone.
Princess
17–19 in · 43–48 cm
The classic. Falls just below the collarbone. Universally flattering and our most-worn length.
Matinee
20–26 in · 50–66 cm
Drapes to the bust line. Looks best with business attire, knitwear, and higher necklines.
Opera
28–36 in · 71–91 cm
Falls below the bust. Can be doubled into a choker or worn long for evening.
Rope
37+ in · 94+ cm
Maximum versatility. Wrap, knot, double, or layer — one piece, many silhouettes.
04.

To scale

Pearl Sizes,
in millimeters.

The most common question we receive: "How big is 5mm?" Here is the answer — actual size on screen. Compare against a coin to confirm what you are imagining.

4mm
Seed
5mm
Dainty
6mm
Classic
7mm
Signature
8mm
Premium
9mm
Luxe
10mm
Heirloom
Cdn Dime · 18mm
Cdn Quarter · 24mm
Loonie · 26mm
05.

Finished in Ontario

What happens
after the pearls arrive.

Sourcing is half the work. The rest happens in our Ontario atelier — by hand, slowly, and only after every pearl has passed our table twice.

i.

Hand-knotted between every pearl

Premium Japanese silk thread, knotted by hand between each pearl. This is what separates a strand built to last from a piece that frays in a season. Two to three days per strand.

ii.

Why the knots matter

Without knots, pearls rub directly against each other. With knots, the silk takes the friction — protecting the nacre. If the strand ever breaks, only one pearl is at risk, not all of them.

iii.

Restring service when needed

Every five to seven years for a piece worn weekly, the silk thread softens and the strand asks to be re-strung. Send it back to the atelier — we re-knot it on fresh Japanese silk and ship it back ready for its next decade. Service starts at CAD $60.

iv.

Two inspections, two days apart

Every piece is graded once when the strand is matched, and once again before it ships. Pearls that have shifted in the interim are replaced. Nothing leaves the atelier without surviving both passes.

06.

Lifetime

Caring for
your pearls.

Pearls are organic. They live longer with simple rituals and shorter without them.

01

Last on, first off

Apply perfume, hairspray, lotion, and sunscreen before you put your pearls on. Remove them before you wash your face. Pearls are porous — they absorb everything.

02

Wipe after wear

A soft, slightly damp cloth — never a tissue, never paper. Wipe the pearls and let them air dry before storing. Skin oils dull luster over time if left to accumulate.

03

Store flat, store separate

In the cloth pouch we ship with your piece, laid flat. Not in a jewellery box drawer with rings and chains — pearls scratch easily, and against metal they lose their finish.

04

Wear them often

The single best thing for a pearl is your skin. Light contact with skin oils — over years — feeds the nacre. Pearls left untouched for decades grow brittle.

05

Restring when needed

Every five to seven years for a piece worn weekly. Send it back to the atelier when it's time — we re-knot on fresh Japanese silk and return it ready for another decade.

07.

On the record

Certificate of
Authenticity.

Every piece ships with our signed Certificate — confirming genuine cultured freshwater pearls, graded by our atelier.

We do not issue GIA or other third-party gemological certificates. Lab certification of that kind is built for stones whose resale value justifies the cost — high-end Akoya, Tahitian, or South Sea pearls trading well above what freshwater pearls command. Freshwater pearls live in a different market: built to be worn, not vaulted.

What we do instead: every piece ships with our own signed document on Hardly Common letterhead, recording exactly what you own. Our name — and our records — stand behind it.

What it does for you

  • Documents your piece for insurance
  • Transfers if you ever gift or resell
  • Lets us identify the piece for repair or restringing
  • A digital copy stays on file with us for life — we can re-issue if lost

Our word is the brand. We sign every one.

08 · Questions

Common questions,
answered properly.

If you have something we haven't covered, the atelier reads every email.

What length should I choose if I am buying my first strand?

Princess (17–19 in). It is the most universally flattering length, sits just below the collarbone, and pairs with every neckline from t-shirt to evening dress. If you wear high collars often, consider Matinee instead.

Freshwater or saltwater — what is the difference?

Saltwater pearls (Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea) are nucleated and typically smaller-yielding, with thinner nacre and higher prices. Freshwater pearls grow in mussels, are fully nacreous, and can match or exceed saltwater pearls in luster when graded properly. We sell freshwater, by choice — it is the only pearl where you can buy a top-grade strand without a five-figure budget.

How is AAAA+ different from the AAA pearls I see online?

AAA satisfies two or three of our five criteria — most online retailers sell it as "high quality." AAAA satisfies four. AAAA+ satisfies all five at our threshold — roughly the top 1% of any given harvest. We offer pieces across all three grades at price points that honestly reflect them, so you can choose the level that fits.

Will pearls match the photo exactly?

Within tolerance. Each strand is hand-matched, so two strands of the same listing will be nearly identical but never literally identical — pearls are natural and small variations in overtone and surface are part of what makes them real. We match against the listing photo as closely as the natural range allows.

What if my pearls arrive and I do not love them?

Return within 30 days, unworn, with the original packaging and certificate. Full refund, no questions asked. We pay the return shipping.

How long does a hand-knotted strand last?

With normal care, five to seven years before the first restring. Send it to the atelier when it's time — we re-knot it on fresh Japanese silk and return it in two to three weeks. Restringing service runs CAD $60–120 depending on length.

Can I wear my pearls in the shower or pool?

No. Chlorine and even prolonged exposure to shampoo will damage nacre and silk. Wear them out, take them off before water.

Next step

Now you know how
we grade them. Meet the pieces.

Every strand in our Collection meets the standard described above. Or — work with us to commission one specifically for you.